(Note: this is is not an official Department of State website; the views and information presented are my own and do not represent the Fulbright Program or the U.S. Department of State.)

Sunday, November 20, 2011

Transitions

While killing some time the other day, I started flipping through the little red agenda book that I've used this past year. Scrawled across its pages are the appointments, flights, and rendez-vous that have taken me across China. It's easy for the days to pile together, but taking the time to reflect over these  experiences has helped me put them into perspective.

After weeks of complete uncertainty, I've finally booked my return ticket to the States. I've had really mixed feelings about the future, and after months of deliberating between staying vs. leaving China, I still don't know what I want. However, for better or worse, the looming expiration of my visa has made the decision for me.

The difficulty of this decision is rooted in the fact that China has become a sort of home for me. After these past fifteen months, I think that I'll always be suspended between these two places. Over Sichuanese food the other day, a friend and I were discussing how China is rather like a black hole. For both of us, our initial, innocent appreciation of the language has morphed into an all-consuming, life-long relationship. China has that sort of effect on people--you can't just casually study it. It's all or nothing.

This year has been full of experiences and stories worthy of telling my future grandchildren. Aside from just acquiring the ability to eat spicy food of tear-inducing magnitude or elbow my way onto an over-crowded bus, I've made some truly incredible friendships. Be it Xi'an, Hangzhou, or somewhere in between, these people have been there to share all the good, the bad, and the ugly(/smelly). You've each enriched my life in so many ways, and I am so glad to have been able to spend this time with you. Best of luck to each of you in all of your future China-related adventures, and 保持联系!

China--thanks for everything. This is goodbye, but certainly not farewell. Perhaps I'll be back in just a few weeks time, but otherwise I will eagerly await our next reunion.

Thanks for reading--
宁琪 Ningqi

Hangzhou family, Dajie misses you!

Sunday, October 2, 2011

Museums in Motion: Sichuan’s “Museum-on-Wheels”


In the past couple of decades, there has been a democratizing trend in museums. Rather than the "museum-as-the-curator's-playground" phenomenon, since the 1990’s there has been a steady rise in museum education. Whereas museums' early focus was on scholarly research and art conservation, funds are progressively being redirected towards outreach and public programming.

The Sichuan Museum, however, has taken this a step further with their Liudong Bowuguan (流动博物馆), or "Mobile Museum." Rather than just bringing the public to the museum, they are also bringing the museum directly to the public.

The Mobile Museum is the only one of its kind in China. Whereas some museums have similar activities as part of their education programming, Sichuan is unique for having its own eight-person department. Officially initiated February of 2010, this program began with the generous donation of four trucks to the museum. In this way, the staff can literally pack-up exhibitions and bring them to citizens across the province.

Since its inception, the Mobile Museum has traveled to forty places across Sichuan. They target a wide-range of audiences, traveling to distant, mountainous regions, minority villages, and more local areas such as schools, mines, and orphanages. They have targeted areas affected by the 2008 earthquake, and gone directly into schools to teach. When visiting poor minority villages, they have even gifted them with technological supplies and equipment such as projectors.

This program has at least one exhibition per month. These shows are based on the museum’s permanent collection, and have covered topics such as Sichuan bronzes, Han dynasty earthenware bricks, Han dynasty jades, and the Long March.

When I asked how they physically transport and display their exhibitions, staff member Zhu Kaituo gestured to the black metal stands that were stacked behind me. Through a series of photos, I was shown how those stands are used to hang wall paneling with images and text. They are also used to hang scrolls—in one case, facsimiles of paintings by 20th century legacy Zhang Daqian. Although they seem to work primarily with text and images, they also transport artifacts, reproductions, and multi-media materials such as touch-screens and projectors. The museum also brings along its staff to give presentations, artists to do live-demonstrations, and in some cases, even art-appraisers to evaluate the locals' antiques.

Exhibit wall text
A traveling show on Han Dynasty earthenware bricks
Cases containing earthenware bricks
Staff member teaching visitors about bricks

Many Western museums are creating impressive, multi-media websites to make their collections more accessible through extensive image databases and educational resources. However, all of these efforts are based on the assumption that the public not only has access to a computer and the internet, but also has the education-level to use it. Since this is not the case for Sichuan Museum, they've found a more direct and personal way to resolve their gaps in viewership.

For those of you who are curious, here's a video from a Chinese news report about the Mobile Museum. The content is pretty much all covered above, but you can watch it for the visuals.

Kudos to Sichuan Museum for paving the way. Let’s hope that other Chinese museums will follow their lead.

*I claim no credit for any of the above images; they were all taken from baidu's image search engine.

Monday, September 26, 2011

My life as a color-coded flow-chart

Recently, I've been getting a lot of questions about "what comes next." Since I feel like a broken record, I've created a flow-chart to visualize my current dilemma: China vs. America.

Pros in blue, cons in red.



Believe me, once I know what I'm doing, I'll be sure to tell you. There will be screaming from proverbial roof-tops.

Monday, September 5, 2011

Ancient China meets modern design

It's no news to you that China is a rapidly developing country. As someone living here, it's truly impossible to keep up with. Orange cranes and scaffolding dot the skyline, traffic is continually clotted by construction for new subway lines, and the sound of drills and jackhammers become merely white noise; its the percussion to the honking, clanking symphony that is Modern China.

Yet amongst all of this construction, amongst the repetitive, cheaply constructed blue-and-white-bath-tile buildings, there are subtle intimations of China's ancient culture. Yes, there are new-old buildings and alleys in any given tourist city, readily identifying their "must-see" and "historically rich" status, but I'm not talking about those. What I'm thinking of specifically is how China incorporates its ancient motifs into its modern aesthetic.

The most common example that I've seen is the adaptation of ancient bronzes. Banks, shopping malls, parks, or even roundabouts will occasionally feature a 2000x replica of ritual vessels such as ding (鼎) or gui (簋). 

Replica of a Gui, located in a Beijing roundabout 

More than just that, it's also architecture. Two famous examples include the China pavilion at the Shanghai World Expo and the Shanghai Museum of Art, which are both modeled after ding vessels.


Fang ding at Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art

 
Left: Fang Ding at public part in Luoyang with inflatable model of the China Expo Pavilion in the background
          Right: China Pavilion, Shanghai (October 2010)
Shanghai Museum of Art

Yet perhaps my favorite example is the trash cans that line the city walls in Xi'an, which are modeled to look like zhong (钟), or ancient Chinese bells:

 
Left: Shang Dynasty bronze bells at Shaanxi History Museum
Right: Bell-shaped trash can at Xi'an City Walls

Another common place to catch a glimpse of Ancient China is its many bridges. Examples include motifs from ancient jades, bronzes, and even coins.

Left: Image of Taotie motif on bronze from wikipedia entry 
Right: "Taotie" bridge in Hangzhou

 
Left: Example of Shaman motif on jade from Neolithic Liangzhu Culture (source)
Right: "Liangzhu Jade" bridge in Hangzhou suburbs, located near Liangzhu Culture Museum 


 
Left: Bronze mask from Shang Dynasty Sanxingdui Archaeological site
Right: "Sanxingdui" bronze mask bridge located near Sanxingdui archaeological site, Chengdu suburbs

Bridge with ancient coins in Xi'an

Despite the race towards development and progress, China does seem to have an awareness and respect for its ancient culture. Although I'm unsure of the motives, it does seem to be a unique approach to public art, or even arts education. Here's hoping that it has some sort of enriching impact beyond just the art/history nerds out there.

Saturday, August 13, 2011

Window Shopping: Commercialism and Museums

While working through my copy of A Companion to Museum Studies, in Sharon Macdonald's chapter entitled "Collecting Practices,"¹ I came across the following:
"Creating a collection required the ability to make careful selections from the profusion of objects that had become more widely available during the eighteenth century and especially into the nineteenth. Not only were there still enormous quantities of exotica and novel things to cope with, there were also new, mass-produced goods. New things became more easily available to a wider range of people than ever before, especially in the department stores that sprung up alongside museums in the expanding cities. Museums and department stores sometimes borrowed design features from one another; and both put objects on display through the tantalizing technology of the vitrine or glass case, in which things could be seen and admired but not touched, the possessive appetite thus being whetted but not immediately satisfied. The shop, though, made possession a real possibility; and the new production of "collectibles"--items designed specifically to be collected--tapped into this possibility and market. The perceived danger, however, was that people would be so dazzled by the new acquisitive possibilities that they would not know when to stop or how to select responsibly. This was articulated especially clearly in the disease of 'kleptomania,' which first came to be identified at the time. and which was a particular affliction of the middle-class ladies in department stores (Abelson 1989)." (86)
Reading this excerpt was like finding a long-lost puzzle piece in the couch cushions. After all, isn't visiting museums alarmingly similar to window shopping? At least for me, as a poor, recent college-grad, ogling Chagall in MoMA is not all that different from ogling Chanel on 5th Avenue. Part of the reason I enjoy Chagall more than Chanel, although for many reasons, boils down to two reasons that this passage indirectly raises. For starters, originality. Although I do recognize and appreciate fashion design as art (and perhaps one that people find more readily accessible, as evidenced by the overwhelming popularity of the Alexander McQueen exhibit at the Met), the fact that the Chanel purse I'm coveting on 5th is simultaneously being displayed in thousands of venues across the globe, for me, detracts from its glamor. Which brings me to my second point: there's no real temptation for acquisition in a museum. As we've established, I can afford neither the purse nor the painting, so why not "possess" the latter in an intellectual, emotional manner instead?

However, things get especially tricky when that line between museum and mall is blurred. In his article "Museums and Globalization,"² Saloni Mathur addresses in part the commercialization of both museums and their exhibitions. He lists two of the Guggenhiem's exhibitions as examples: The Art of the Motorcycle (1998) and Giorgio Armani (2000/2001). What makes things morally sticky are their sponsors; Motorcycle being sponsored in part by BMW, one of the featured manufactuers, and although Armani was officially sponsored by In Style magazine, it did follow an individual gift to the museum by Armani himself--for the reported sum of 15 million. Mathur writes:
"Increasingly, it seemed that museums were not only being sponsored by corporations, but that their practices were becoming inter-woven with a corporate model, effectively blurring the boundaries between the world of museums, the world of Hollywood, the world of fashion design, while also creating a convergence of interests between these powerful economic sectors." (700)
It's no surprise, then, that China is jumping on the proverbial band-wagon. Currently on display at the National Museum of China is the exhibition Louis Vuitton Voyages, which marks a few milestones: the 20-year anniversary of LV in China, the museum's second major exhibition since it's reopening in March 2011, and perhaps most importantly, the museum's first partnership with a major consumer brand.³


Photo Credit: Katie Morton (Also, thanks for letting me crash on your couch in Beijing!)


And yet, in the Jing Daily's article "Zhou Chunya: Let Luxury-Art Partnerships Increase Art Appreciation in China," contemporary artist Zhou espouses this relationship:


Over the past two years, major fashion brands have — one after another — cooperated with artists on a range of activities. Chanel created its “Mobile Art” exhibition, Hermes is planning its H-BOX show, LV has hung works by Zhou Tiehai in its stores, and Prada has projected films by Yang Fudong on the walls [of its boutiques].
Some people say that these arts activities are just a matter of luxury brands engaging in high-end marketing in the name of art. So then, as independent artists, should we refuse to serve as a high-end marketing tool for luxury brands? Personally, I feel the answer is, “not necessarily.” Art needs independent creation, but it doesn’t necessarily need “independent display.” Why can’t we use their popularity to promote art? Especially because they can attract so much media and public attention.
          [....]


When luxury brands spare no effort to emphasize that “our products are also works of art,” getting help from their art initiatives, they’re actually also doing another thing — they’re exposing the general public to true works of art, letting people know what art is. Even famous arts venues like the Shanghai Art Museum that host large-scale events have trouble attracting more than 5,000 visitors a day. But how many people pass by a downtown luxury boutique and stop to take a look in the window every day?
China’s luxury consumers are increasing, and within five years China may be the world’s top luxury market. If the world’s leading luxury brands can bring art to these consumers, art will naturally reach a greater audience. And as high-end consumption gradually becomes a way of life for people, we could expect art to become a part of these people’s aesthetic consciousness as well. 

Yes, this general trend has received a lot of criticism and yes, I personally think it feels a little dirty. But as MacDonald pointed out and is reiterated by Mathur, the nineteenth century witnessed the rise of not only the museum, but also the department store, the world fair, and the arcade--commercialism has, and always will be, at its roots. Although museums are oftentimes glamorized and idealized as a secularized "Cultural Cathedral," we cannot ignore its realities. A museum is no shrine; it's a building with walls, pipes, and endowments. Curators are not priests, but rather persons with goals tempered by budgets and concepts tempered by reality. With the current economic climate, this is also reflected by the shift of museum directors with Art History PhDs to directors with MBAs (one such example being the appointment of Jeffrey Deitch to the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art in 2010).

Let's stop kidding ourselves: everything does boil down to money. Too bad in this field, I'll never be seeing any of it. In the meantime, I'll console myself with the Chagalls at the MoMA and the ancient bronzes at the National Museum.



Citations:
¹ MacDonald, Sharon "Collecting Practices" in Sharon MacDonald, ed., A Companion to Museum Studies. Malden: Blackwell Publishing, 2006.
² Mathur, Saloni. "Museums and Globalization."Anthropological Quarterly 78.3 (2005): pp. 697-708.
³ Event Watch: Louis Vuitton "Voyages" Exhibition at National Museum of China: http://www.jingdaily.com/en/luxury/event-watch-louis-vuitton-voyages-exhibition-at-national-museum-of-china-beijing-may-29-august-30/

Saturday, August 6, 2011

Chinese Semiotics

A lesson in Chinese Semiotics, brought to you by the National Center for the Performing Arts, Beijing:


From left to right, top to bottom:
  1. No wolves
  2. No kites
  3. No platform roller blades (although regular ones are subject to consideration)
  4. No amputees playing with spherical objects
  5. No littering
  6. No cars
  7. No sitting on ping-pong tables (while cross-legged)
  8. No bicycles
  9. No pointing at small flowers
  10. No trumpets
  11. No bicycles with bike racks (in case you thought you thought you were exempt from #8)
  12. No exploding Christmas trees
  13. No camp fires
  14. No Chinese characters*
*This is actually the character shòu, which means "to sell"

A special thanks to Annie for not only taking the photo with her Iphone, but also for her witty contribution to the interpretation of these icons. If you have your own readings, feel free to post them below!

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Addendum:

How could I have possibly forgotten this earlier gem, spotted in a Xi'an restaurant:

(Insert your own caption here)


Friday, July 29, 2011

The Fashion Question

Let me start by saying that I could write a book—nay, volumes—on Chinese fashion. That being said, if I had to summarize in a sentence, I’d have to say that it’s much like the country itself: multi-various, self-contradictory, and in transition. Not to mention, just generally confused.

Believe me when I say that people watching takes on a whole new dimension here—it could be a competitive sport. First off, it goes without saying that the subject pool is significantly larger. I myself have two ways to play: category or ensemble-based. For the former, pick a category, be it footwear, dresses, or Chinglish graphic T-shirts, and start comparing. If targeting footwear (my personal favorite), arbitrarily assign points for various attributes, be they bows, lace, or sequins. Otherwise, you can examine the relationship between heel-height and degree of tottering, or even tally the number of people wearing platform shoes with unbuckled straps (how they walk in such a state is entirely beyond me). Another fun case study is to survey the relationship between multi-hitters—in this case, women wobbling in sky-reaching bejeweled, lacy heels with bows—and purse-holding, crutch boyfriends (note that when I say “crutch,” I mean it quite literally; remove the man’s supportive arm and she’ll surely topple over like a poorly-constructed Jenga set).

But let’s take a moment to go back to the ensembles. As an art major and a former Banana Republic sales associate, the entire outfit is, of course, quite important. Hypothesizing how Item A and Item B were selected is almost always a fun brainteaser. My current existing theories include 1) Dressing in the dark; 2) A highly experimental Arp-inspired clothing collage—i.e., throwing clothing and accessories on the floor, and allowing chance and gravity to determine the result. The alternative—that the pink, frilly flower-print dress was in fact intended to be paired with the green, sparkly flower-print flats—is honestly a bit too much to bear.

Perhaps I’m being a tad bit harsh. Let me clarify by saying that not everyone is bizarrely dressed, especially not with the rise of the upper-echelon and 名牌--name brands. Fashion is certainly changing here. After all, the true test for the popularity of any given trend is whether they’ve started making cheap knockoffs in China.

Which brings me to my earlier point, which is the fact that Chinese fashion is in a constant state of flux. Having spent time here summer of 2008, I prepared for my return trip with longer skirts and modest necklines. I remember being flummoxed by the girls in the height of summer wearing jeans and t-shirts. Just the thought of any additional or unnecessary fabric makes me schvitz.

While there’s still quite a bit of that modesty, you wouldn’t believe how things have changed since then. The hemlines have jumped to an unseemly degree, and are coupled with high heels to boot! Of course, the effect is a bit different on a twiggy, anorexic Chinese girl than it would be on her better-nourished, more buxom counterpart. All the same, I wouldn’t have guessed.

In sum, the one rule for fashion—like for the rest of China—is that there are no rules. The fashion question has no answer. For a brief introduction, you can check out this blog: Accidental Chinese Hipsters.

Enjoy!